By the Numbers

I suppose all epic adventures need some form of statistics to provide comparative measures. For me they pale in comparison to the true depth and breadth of the trip. They fail to include the months of preparation; hundreds of miles jogging and biking, thousand of sit ups and pushups, many miles carrying heavy packs and breaking in boots. But for those who are really interested, here are a few numbers recorded on the actual climb:

Monday: Started at White River Camp, elevation about 4320 ft, at about 2:30PM. Hiked 3.1 miles to Glacier Basin Camp at about 5975 ft elevation arriving at about 5:20PM There we set up camp and had our first real experience with MRE’s. Our packs weighed anywhere from 50 lbs to 80 lbs each.
Ascended about 1655 ft

Tuesday: Left camp at about 7:30AM hiked 2 hours to the base of Inter Glacier at an elevation of 7185 ft where we stopped for breakfast. After breakfast Steve taught us a variety of self-arresting techniques that we practiced for about an hour. We loaded up again and continued up Inter Glacier another 3 hours stopping for lunch at about 8595 ft elevation. At about 6:30PM we finally arrived at Camp Schurman where we set up our base camp, elevation about 9525 ft. The trek required crampons, the team was roped, there were significant hazards and challenges that are recorded elsewhere and more interestingly in this blog.
Ascended about 3550 ft.

Wednesday: Left base camp late in AM to climb to a high camp just above The Corridor on Emmons Glacier at 11240 ft. Climb took about 3 hours. It took another 2 hours to dig ledges into snow to create flat area long enough for 3 tents; built snow walls on uphill side to protect against wind; anchored our gear and ourselves to the side of the mountain and braced for the wind that had started to kick up.
Ascended about 1715 ft

Thursday: after mostly a sleepless night enduring 70 mph winds we got up at 3:00 AM to prepare for the summit attempt. Packed all gear and anchored it to side of mountain, taking with us only 2 liters water each, snack bars and 1 meal. Wind in our face still gusting to 70 mph we left high camp at about 4:15 AM. Two hours later, after a beautiful sunrise we had reached only 12000 ft. Wind gusts continued and increased in intensity and frequency, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) was affecting team members; we made the decision to end our ascent and return to a lower elevation for the safety of team. Stopped briefly at high camp to pick up our gear and continued down. Dodged a snow slide, navigated crevasses, ran out of water and finally reached base camp. Rested for half hour, packed remaining gear, refilled our water and continued down towards Glacier Basin Camp. As this is the “numbers” summary you may find it far more interesting to read other accounts of the decent. Arrived at Glacier Basin Camp at about 5:30 PM, out of water and totally exhausted.
Ascended about 760 ft.
Descended about 6025 ft

Friday: Arose at about 7:00 AM; left camp at about 9:00 AM for the final 3.1 mile trek to White River Camp. Arriver at about 11:00 AM and warmly met by families with hugs and real, fresh food.
Descent about 1655 ft.


Two side notes that readers will find very interesting:
1. Only one team was able to summit that Thursday. That team consisted of 3 climbers: 2 climbers who were making their 71st ascent in 30 years (and refused to miss a year) and accompanied by Dale, an Army friend of Steve’s – Special Forces, attached to the Army Northern Warfare School stationed in Alaska, extensively trained in mountaineering. They met with us at our high camp on their ascent. Their ascent and return to base camp took 14 hours, normally 8 hrs to 10 hrs – read Dale’s account of their climb. Our team at 12000 ft was the second highest team that day.
2. After returning to Glacier Basin Camp on Thursday, at 6:00 PM Steve ascended once again to about 8500 ft to find Dale who was lost and suffering from snow blindness. They were in radio contact but could not connect; decided Dale would camp where he was, Steve returned to Glacier Basin, arriving at about midnight. Friday at about 6:00 AM Steve headed back up the mountain, found Dale and they returned to Glacier Basin Camp. Steve’s ability and dedication to his fellow officer enabled him to push himself well beyond what any of us might expect.